Virgil Abloh』s final collaboration | 維吉爾·阿布洛的絕唱 - FT中文網
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Virgil Abloh』s final collaboration
維吉爾·阿布洛的絕唱

The Louis Vuitton designer, who has just died aged 41, made a career of his many diverse interests. His last one was with Mercedes-Benz
這位剛剛去世的路易威登天才設計師,享年僅41歲,他的職業生涯融合了多個領域。他的最後一份工作是與梅賽德斯-賓士的合作項目。
When Gorden Wagener, chief design officer of Mercedes-Benz, first paid a visit to Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton’s headquarters in Paris there was a small hitch. “It was a Saturday, and I was in front of this huge building but there was no doorbell,” says Wagener, who eventually gained entrance, via a series of phone calls, security gates and an elevator, to the studio of the men’s artistic director for Louis Vuitton. “The space was nothing that I would have expected – there were DJ mixing decks, pieces of furniture and clothing in a bright open space. You know within the first five seconds if you are going to connect with someone and those first impressions are never wrong. That meeting two years ago was the start of a great friendship and collaboration.”
梅賽德斯-賓士(Mercedes-Benz)首席設計官戈登•瓦格納(gordon Wagener)第一次在路易威登(Louis Vuitton)的巴黎總部拜訪維吉爾•阿布洛(Virgil Abloh)時,遇到了一個小麻煩。瓦格納說:「那是一個週六,我在這座巨大的建築前,找不到門鈴。」他最終打了好幾通電話,透過安全門和電梯,進入了這位路易威登(Louis Vuitton)男裝藝術總監的工作室。「這裏的空間完全出乎我的意料——在明亮的開放空間裏有DJ混音臺、傢俱和衣服。在最初的五秒鐘內,你就知道你是否可以和某人建立聯繫,那些第一印象永遠不會錯。兩年前的那次會面是一次偉大友誼和合作的開始。」
Polymath designer-architect Abloh, founder of Off-White, has been at Vuitton since 2018. In July, its owner LVMH took a 60 per cent stake in Off-White and extended Abloh’s remit at the company. He now helps launch new brands and will collaborate with existing ones, adding creative magic to its interests in areas such as wines and spirits and hospitality.
多才多藝的設計師兼建築師阿布洛是Off-White的創辦人,自2018年以來一直在路易威登工作。今年7月,路易威登所有者路威酩軒(LVMH)收購了Off-White 60%的股份,並擴大了阿布洛在該公司的職權範圍。他現在幫助路易威登推出新品牌,並與現有品牌合作,爲其在葡萄酒、烈酒和酒店等領域增添創造性的魔力。
Virgil Abloh (right) and Gorden Wagener (left) working on Project MAYBACH designs
維吉爾·阿布洛(右)和戈登·瓦格納(左)正在爲邁巴赫項目進行設計工作
The Maybach W3 presented in September 1921 at the Berlin Autoshow
1921年9月在柏林車展上展出的邁巴赫W3
Like many creative unions today, Abloh first encountered Wagener via Instagram. “He has a great profile,” he says of Wagener’s glossy feed of silhouetted cars and fetishist details. Wagener has nearly half a million followers, while Abloh has so far clocked up 6.4m. “With industries like car design, you often get a feeling there’s nothing human there, but with Wagener’s feed I could follow different projects. In fashion, I aim to do that too, to demystify the operation of a fashion house: that big daunting building with no way to get in! Everyone knows where the door to ‘buy’ is but not the people behind the brand. We are both reporting to big systems of design but we are both still captivated by the small stuff and what we don’t know. So we met and thought, ‘Let’s do something here.’”
和今天的許多創意組合一樣,阿布洛第一次和瓦格納接觸是透過Instagram。他在談到瓦格納發的那些優雅的汽車剪影和精雕細琢的細節圖片時表示,「他的Instagram非常棒。」瓦格納有近50萬粉絲,而阿布洛當時已積累了640萬粉絲。「在汽車設計這樣的行業,你經常會覺得缺乏人文的元素,但在瓦格納的指引下,我可以關注不同的項目。在時尚界,我也打算這麼做,去揭開時裝店運營的神祕面紗:那座讓人望而生畏、根本進不去的大樓!每個人都知道「購買」的大門在哪裏,但是那些品牌背後的人卻不知道。我倆都負責著一個龐大的設計系統,但我們仍然鍾愛那些小的細節,和我們不知道的東西。所以我們一見面的時候,馬上就想到,『讓我們一起在這裏做點什麼吧。』」
The duo’s first collaboration in 2020 was the radical reworking of the Mercedes-Benz G-Class (the first model dates from 1979) as a stripped-back, monolithic racetrack car with analogue speedometer and dials. Their second, which the pair have been working on for the past year, is Project Maybach: an electric show car that will make its world debut on 1 December to coincide with Art Basel Miami Beach. Gallerists, collectors and artists will be admiring the Maybach’s surprisingly sturdy silhouette and signature two-tone panelling that segues from earth tones to black under the palm trees, to the rhythm of ocean waves. The art-world intervention is a jump from the car-boffin audience of a motor show. In fact, Abloh is planning a creative blitz on Miami. On 30 November, he will also stage a spin-off Louis Vuitton show in the metropolis, presenting its SS22 menswear collection with 14 extra looks he’s designed specifically for the occasion.
兩人在2020年的第一次合作,是對梅賽德斯-賓士G級(其第一款車型可追溯到1979年)進行徹底改造,將其改變成一輛帶模擬速度表和刻度盤的整體式賽車。過去一年裏,他們一起致力於第二個合作項目:邁巴赫項目(Project Maybach),它將於12月1日在世界範圍內首次亮相,與邁阿密海灘巴塞爾藝術展(Art Basel Miami Beach)同步啓動。屆時,畫展主辦方、收藏家和藝術家將欣賞到邁巴赫令人驚訝的堅固輪廓和標誌性的雙色調鑲板,在棕櫚樹下從大地色系轉爲黑色,與海浪的節奏相呼應。相對於傳統的車展,藝術世界的介入也是一個新的變化。事實上,阿布洛正計劃在邁阿密進行一次創意閃電戰。11月30日,他本計劃在這個大都會舉辦路易威登衍生時裝秀,展示他專爲這次活動設計的14款SS22男裝系列。
The silhouette of Abloh’s new Maybach
阿布洛的新邁巴赫的側影
Virgil Abloh (left) and Gorden Wagener (right), pictured while they were working on the Project MAYBACH collaboration
維吉爾·阿布洛和戈登·瓦格納在參與邁巴赫項目時的合照
“The Maybach is the epitome of luxury with 100 years of history,” says Abloh of the W3 car that Karl Maybach and his father Wilhelm conceived. The vehicle secured Maybach’s reputation as an aspirational, innovative automotive brand. “I look for a leap forward and I always want to discover the unexpected twist,” says Abloh approvingly. The designer, who grew up in Rockford, Illinois, before studying civil engineering at the University of Wisconsin-Madison, followed by a master’s in architecture at the Illinois Institute of Technology in Chicago, began to think about our relationship with nature and the way we interact and go on adventures in the great outdoors. The concept for the electric car grew out of a pandemic-accelerated rediscovery of nature rather than a desire to create a swaggering gesture on urban roads. 
「邁巴赫是擁有100年曆史的豪華汽車的縮影。」阿布洛在談到卡爾·邁巴赫(Karl Maybach)和他的父親威廉(Wilhelm)構想的W3轎車時說。這款車確保了邁巴赫作爲一個有抱負的、創新的汽車品牌的聲譽。阿布洛讚許地說:「我期待一個飛躍,我總是想發現意想不到的轉折。」這位設計師成長於伊利諾斯羅克福德,在威斯康星大學麥迪遜分校學習土木工程,他在伊利諾伊理工學院拿到建築學碩士學位之後,開始思考我們與自然的關係,以及我們在戶外的冒險和互動的方式。電動汽車的概念源於對自然的重新發現,而不是在城市道路上的招搖過市。
“Coming out of the pandemic, I visited the Countryside, The Future exhibition by Rem Koolhaas at the Guggenheim,” continues Abloh. “It showed findings from a world survey that highlighted the fact that 50 per cent of the world’s population lives outside the city. Instead of focusing on the city side of cars – as that is what we know – we asked what this historic vehicle could look like if it takes us to the 50 per cent who live in the countryside? Ideas of space, air, natural light and using a car to explore – that became our north star.”  
阿布洛繼續說道,「疫情結束後,我參觀了雷姆·庫哈斯(Rem Koolhaas)在古根海姆美術館(Guggenheim)舉辦的《鄉村,未來》(Countryside, the Future)展覽。它顯示了一項在世界範圍內進行的調查的結果,強調了世界上50%的人口居住在城市以外的事實。我們並沒有聚焦於汽車在城市的一面,因爲我們已經對此非常瞭解了,而是問了這樣一個問題:如果讓這種歷史悠久的汽車把我們帶到住在農村的50%的人那裏,會發生什麼?關於空間、空氣、自然光和利用汽車進行探索的想法,成爲了引導我們前進的北極星。」
With Wagener based between California and Stuttgart (near Mercedes-Benz HQ) and Abloh in Paris, Project Maybach began to take shape over virtual meetings and design data transfers. “Mercedes has a global network of satellite studios and a lot of the process is virtual, but at some point you have to be in the same room and touch something that is not a digital product,” says Wagener. The two met in Germany to explore the full-size design. “Maybach is a sophisticated urban car – it’s Rodeo Drive. We wanted to create a Maybach adventure and take it out into the woods. It looks like a capable off-road vehicle, but different to what you have seen. You can buy an SUV from every brand, so this had to be surprising, shocking even, with its exaggerated design, proportions and message,” adds Wagener of the classic yet high-tech design.
瓦格納主要在加州和斯圖加特(梅賽德斯-賓士總部附近)兩地活動,而阿布洛主要在巴黎,邁巴赫項目在起步階段,主要透過虛擬會議和設計數據傳輸逐步成型。瓦格納說:「梅賽德斯擁有一個遍佈全球的衛星工作室網路,許多過程都是虛擬的,但在某些情況下大家必須呆在同一間屋子裏,接觸一些非數字產品。」兩位設計師在德國會面,探討全尺寸的設計。瓦格納在談到這款車經典而高科技的設計時說道,「邁巴赫傳統上是一輛複雜而精密的城市車,就像是比弗利山莊的羅迪歐大道。但我們想要創造一場邁巴赫的冒險,把它帶到森林裏。它外表看起來像一輛功能強大的越野車,但其實和你之前看到的所有車都不一樣。幾乎每個汽車品牌都有SUV,所以我們的設計必須出人意表,甚至令人震驚,要採用誇張的設計和比例,來傳遞我們想要表達的資訊。」
While today’s SUVs require the driver and passengers to sit upright and ride above the road, Abloh was insistent on a more laidback horizontal line with a bonnet and trunk that fly in the face of contemporary curvilinear styles. For the interior, he was struck by modular hotel designs in Japan. “With car interiors as we know them, there is always a link to home interiors, but I wanted to take a more utilitarian approach, creating a shell with seats that can be taken into the outdoor environment,” he says of his multifunctional prototype. “We went down this road thinking about indoor and outdoor usage.” 
雖然今天的SUV強調的是坐得高、視野好,但阿布洛堅持更爲舒適的水準線的引擎蓋和後備箱,與現代的曲線風格相呼應。在內飾方面,他更鐘意日本的模塊化酒店設計。他在談到自己的多功能原型時說,「我們知道,汽車內飾總是與家庭內飾有聯繫,但我想採取一種更實用的方法,創造一個帶有座椅的外殼,可以被帶到戶外環境中。我們在思考設計的時候,會同時考慮到車內和車外的用途。」
Neither of the duo anticipates a “that’s nice” reaction. “A concept car is about designing the luxury of the future and as designers we live in the future,” says Wagener, who is also chief design officer of the Daimler Group. “The average person might not be there yet – the design might shock and then grow on them. And ultimately this is the purpose of luxury – it concerns beauty but it must be extraordinary, and with that definition it is not for everyone. If you try to please everyone, you will not create something new. That’s the key to our approach. It must be tasteful and beautiful, even if shocking, and that’s what Virgil does and why we get along so well.”
兩位設計師都不認爲這款設計現在就會讓多數人接受。兼任戴姆勒集團首席設計官的瓦格納說:「概念車設計的是未來的奢侈品,作爲設計師,我們生活在未來。一般人暫時可能還不能接受這種設計,因此這可能會讓他們感到震驚,但他們之後會逐漸喜歡上它。最終,這就是奢侈品的目的——它關注美麗,但它必須是非凡的,並不是每個人都適合這個定義。如果你試圖取悅所有人,你不會創造出新的東西。這是我們方法的關鍵。它必須有品位和美感,即使令人震驚,這就是維吉爾所做的,也是我們相處得如此融洽的原因。」
Wagener has been responsible for designing vehicles including the Mercedes-Maybach GLS (2019); Mercedes-Maybach S-Class (2020); and a concept Mercedes-Maybach EQS (2021). The first electric Maybach will come out in 2023; limited 100th-anniversary editions of the Mercedes-Maybach S-Class and GLS called Edition 100 will be available later this year. Electric is the future, as the $1tn valuation of Tesla proves. The Mercedes-Benz EQS, an electric S-Class model, launched in April 2021.
瓦格納負責設計的車輛包括梅賽德斯-邁巴赫GLS(2019年),梅賽德斯-邁巴赫S級(2020年),以及概念車梅賽德斯-邁巴赫EQS(2021年)。第一輛電動邁巴赫將於2023年問世;梅賽德斯-邁巴赫S級和GLS的100週年限量版Edition 100將在今年晚些時候上市。特斯拉1兆美元的估值證明,電動汽車就是未來。梅賽德斯-賓士EQS是一款電動S級車型,於2021年4月推出。
While Abloh is famously prodigious, he stands in awe of Wagener’s work. “His output is insane. In art and fashion, you design in seasonal cycles. I can see a painting, get inspired and change a whole collection because I like this versus that. Automotive could not be more different than designing a sneaker, which you might only hold in your hand three times before production,” he continues. “A car is a piece of technology, it’s architecture, it’s ship-making, and even for a concept car there are regulations. If I see something cool on the road or see a cool building, I know someone had to push boundaries for it to be realised and I appreciate that.” 
雖然阿布洛的才氣早已聲名遠揚,但他對瓦格納的作品仍懷有敬畏之情。他說道:「他的作品太瘋狂了。在藝術和時尚領域,你的設計是按季節循環進行的。我可以看到一幅畫,得到靈感,然後根據我的喜好,改變整個系列的作品。汽車設計與運動鞋最大的不同之處在於,設計運動鞋的時候,在生產之前,你可能只有三次把鞋拿在手裏的機會。而汽車是一個科技產品,它有架構,就好像是造船一樣,即使是設計概念車,也會受到很多限定。如果我在路上看到很酷的車,或者看到很酷的建築,我知道有人必須打破界限才能實現它,我很欣賞這一點。」
“If all is ‘agreeable’, you are not testing the limits”: Abloh photographed at his Paris office
「如果一切都是『稱心如意』,你就還沒有試探極限」:阿布洛在他的巴黎辦公室拍攝
The Mercedes-Maybach S-Class: “You can buy an SUV from every brand, so this had to be surprising, shocking even”
梅賽德斯-邁巴赫S級轎車:「幾乎每個汽車品牌都有SUV,所以我們的設計必須出人意表,甚至令人震驚」
For both Wagener and Abloh, the Mercedes brand has long been part of their design education. “My dad drove one and it had a certain aura, a self-assuredness,” says Wagener. He admits that the image of Harley Earl driving his own concept cars to work at the General Motors car plant in Detroit in the 1930s has a deep allure. “He was the first head of design and he was like a movie star.” For Abloh, Mercedes always shone as a symbol of luxury. “When I saw a picture of Jay-Z driving an S-Class, I knew I wanted one of those.”
對於瓦格納和阿布洛來說,梅賽德斯品牌一直是他們設計教育的一部分。瓦格納說,「我父親就開梅賽德斯,它有某種光環,一種自我肯定的感覺。」他承認,上世紀30年代,哈利·厄爾(Harley Earl)駕駛著自己的概念車在底特律的通用汽車公司(General Motors)上班的形象,對他有著深深的吸引力,「他是第一位擔任設計主管的人,就像一個電影明星。」對阿布洛來說,梅賽德斯一直是奢侈的象徵。「當我看到一張Jay-Z開著S級車的照片時,我就知道我也想要一輛。」
Now both fathers themselves, the pair’s own auto choices are driven by the desire for space and comfort. Wagener drives a six-seater GLS 63, and a GT while driving solo, while Abloh and his wife Shannon have matching G-Classes with identical topstitching on tobacco-brown leather interiors. “Even the licence plates almost mimic. I’m super-particular! I’ve always had G-Wagons and my kids know the car so well they even remark on how they love the new suspension,” he says, smiling. 
現在兩人都已爲人父,他們對汽車的選擇是由對空間和舒適的渴望所驅動。瓦格納開的是一輛六座的GLS 63,獨自駕駛時開的是GT,而阿布洛和他的妻子香農則分別開著一對配套的G系列,菸草棕色的皮革內飾上有相同的頂飾。他笑著說,「甚至車牌也幾乎是一模一樣的。我非常挑剔!我一直都偏愛G系列,我的孩子們對這輛車非常熟悉,他們甚至會說他們多麼喜歡新的懸掛系統。」
The prototype is not all posture and no purpose. A limited-edition Mercedes-Maybach S-Class that takes a cue from the show car will be released in 2022. Until then, for the first imaginary trip Wagener pictures himself driving to the beach with surfboards on the roof, while Abloh fancies a snowboarding trip to a swish Swiss resort. Although the duo might describe the project as seamless, plenty of ideas were binned along the way. “Collaboration should not be a walk in the park,” concludes Abloh. “If all is ‘agreeable’, you are not testing the limits.”  
這款原型車並非華而不實的花架子。一輛限量版的梅賽德斯-邁巴赫S級車借鑑了這輛展車的設計,將於2022年發佈。先前,在暢想自己將如何駕駛這輛車進行第一次旅行的時候,瓦格納想像自己在車頂上放上衝浪板,駛向海灘,而阿布羅赫則幻想在瑞士的一個豪華度假勝地進行滑雪旅行。儘管這對組合可能會把此次項目的合作經歷描述爲「天衣無縫」,但一路上還是有很多想法被否決了。「合作不應該是在公園裏散步,」阿布洛總結道,「如果一切都是『稱心如意』,你就還沒有試探極限」。
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