中國能否出品世界頂級佳釀？

中國能否出品世界頂級佳釀？——FT Asia & Jade Vineyard CEO Dinner was successfully held

10月26日晚，FT Asia & Jade Vineyard CEO Dinner在香港置地文化酒店圓滿舉行。活動邀請了亞太區金融界高階主管出席，並邀請了數位葡萄酒國際專業人士與大家品鑑、分享佳釀。美好的夜晚，怡人的氛圍，九款佳釀搭配珍饈次第呈現，現場光彩照人。

嘉地酒園 Jade Vineyard，寓意一塊美玉，坐落於賀蘭山東麓，作爲一家中國新興精品酒莊，嘉地酒園始終抱持「用國際視野，做中國好酒」的理想，努力向葡萄酒新舊世界學習，尊重自然，呈現中國風土。

此次CEO 晚宴亦作爲嘉地酒園「Demo Tasting」，選在葡萄酒最普及、飲酒歷史已有一百餘年的香港，參加晚宴的朋友們都是具有良好葡萄酒教育及豐富飲酒經驗的酒客。

雞尾酒會時間，以嘉地酒園風信子桃紅2015的果香、甜美，愉悅開場。晚宴以唐培裏儂2006年份香檳開始，以滴金1986收尾。中間六款乾紅葡萄酒，其中嘉地酒款混合新舊世界葡萄酒，採取盲品的方式，邀請在場嘉賓及專家進行點評，所有客人投票，最終公佈結果。

此次活動特別邀請《葡萄酒評論》副主編Olivier Poels，現場邀請Olivier盲品點評了第一、二款酒。「我瞭解中國和中國葡萄酒是從七年前開始的，《葡萄酒評論》中國每年舉辦一場大型的中國葡萄酒品評賽，見證了中國葡萄酒在這七年間的變化。嘉地酒園在中國葡萄酒界打開了新的篇章。今天，我們非常幸運能有機會探索和品嚐嘉地，能跟隨這個品牌成長。我相信在不遠的將來，我們今天在場的人能夠很驕傲的說，我們在此見證了這個嬰兒的降生。」

（三位大師的評價英文原文及中文翻譯放在文末以供讀者參閱。）

嘉裏酒香集團及大中華區總經理Eric Degoutte，從侍酒師開始長期從事酒商工作。他有著被法國頂級佳釀Lafitte、Latour、Petrus甚至Romani Conti長期飲用養成的味蕾，同時是一個鍾愛法國酒的、儘管彬彬有禮但是a little bit of Male chauvinism的男人，邀請他從一開始，就知道是一個風險。但是，嘉地酒園偏要邀請這位「刁鑽」的大咖，對於一個一直不露面媒體的Eric實屬難得。他是如此坦誠，喜歡就是喜歡，不喜歡絕不違心。

其間FT Asia CEO Angela做精彩發言：「……剛纔我們看了嘉地酒園的影片短片，非常浪漫非常美，你看那風土，看那片葡萄園，是你在世界任何其他地方看不到的，你不禁會問，會暢想，他們到有怎樣的歷史和故事，會驚奇他們的未來。」

著名大提琴家、曾經的音樂神童朱亦兵朱老師應莊主之邀，在參加香港音樂節之前正好來到這次晚宴。因爲中、英、法、德四種語言熟練轉換，成爲現場最受歡迎的來賓之一。在葡萄佳釀的感染下，這位藝術家也不再顧忌地毯吸音、環境音效如何，現場演奏了巴赫大提琴獨奏曲及法國作曲家聖·桑的《天鵝》，可以聽的精神飲品。

六款酒盲品結束，我們邀請了Jeannie Cho Lee MW，2008年獲得MW，世界第一位亞裔MW葡萄酒大師、葡萄酒「女神」李至延進行點評。她是南韓人，從小移民到美國，出身優渥，哈佛大學碩士學位，美麗典雅。之前她在一次宴會上喝到過嘉地酒園的詠歎調2014，給予了極高評價，這一次只是和嘉地第一次見面。

Jeannie點評：「首先我要說，六款酒各具特色。最後兩款（第5、6款）我認爲最和諧，有著極高品質的單寧，有著更和諧的結構。第五款，我覺得稍微有一點點甜，更慷慨大方，骨架大，口感也更成熟。第六款酒更矜持內斂，更形象和具體地比喻，第六款更加優雅，就像奧黛麗赫本一樣。

盲品酒款順序揭曉：

1、嘉地酒園風信子乾紅2016

2、西施佳雅2013 RP97

3、嘉地酒園四季乾紅2015

4、嘉地酒園詠歎調幹紅2015

5、Opus one 2013 RP100

6、嘉地酒園信使乾紅2015

盲品結果揭曉：

嘉地酒園信使乾紅葡萄酒2015年份 ——19票 第一

美國納帕谷Opus1 2013年份 ——16票 第二

義大利西施佳雅2013年份 ——15票 第三

也就是說，嘉地酒園信使2015乾紅葡萄酒贏得了第一，Opus1 2013羅伯特帕克評分100，西施佳雅2013羅伯特帕克評分97分，居第二和第三。嘉地酒園信使2015獲得最高票選是衆望所歸，就連最「嚴苛」最「傲嬌」、之前一直不起勁的Eric Degouttes 品完最後一款都興奮地對我說：「哈！This one is very good!"

嘉地酒園香港Demo Tasting，在一片美好氣氛中久久不能落幕，一一道別，一個美好的夜晚給賓客留下了深深的回憶。中國作爲新興葡萄酒產區，能否出品世界頂級佳釀呢？我們拭目以待。

PS:

Olivier Poels』s comments on the No.1 and No.2:

I know China and Chinese wines since 7 years. Because, maybe you know, we have a <> edition now in China and in Chinese. Each year, we organize a big Chinese wine tasting in Beijing. And it』s amazing to see all the Chinese wine industry has changed in 7 years. I must say that, during my first visit, I was a little bit disappointed drinking all those Chinese wines. It was the beginning of the story. And last year, during the tasting, I was really surprised by the quality of some of the wines. ….So Jade Vineyard is a young vineyard, it』s a young story in the wine industry. And as you know, making a wine takes time. So we have the chance to discover the young babies you produced, it』s always interesting to follow a story like that. And I』s sure in the future, in a few years, we will be proud to say, we were there at the beginning. And that』s very interesting.

So let talk now about this tasting and these wines, blind tasting is always a game, special game. We like it, of course. But it』s not really easy for us of course. We are in danger. I』m taking about wine tasting, one of the most famous French oenologist, used to say, in wine tasting, quick look at the label better than 20 years of experience. But I didn』t have the chance to have the quick look on the label. So a few of words about these 2 wines, quite different. As you can see, the first wine seems very young of course, in an elegant style. I like the freshness of the wine, the balance between good fruit and good acidity. It』s like what we can call classic wine. Not really powerful, more elegant than powerful. The second wine is really different. More structured, more modern style as you call. You feel the maturity of the grapes, you feel the oak, too….

Olivier對第1、2款評價：

我瞭解中國和中國葡萄酒是從七年前開始的。法國有一本雜誌叫《法國葡萄酒評論》，現在也同時有了中國版。每一年我們在北京都舉辦一場大型的中國葡萄酒品評賽。令人開心的是這個比賽見證了中國葡萄酒在這七年間的變化。說實話，在我第一次來中國品鑑到這些中國葡萄酒的時候，我真的非常失望。這就是起初的故事。但是從去年的比賽開始，一部分中國酒的品質真是完全讓我改觀了對他們的認識。嘉地酒園是一個年輕的酒園，在葡萄酒界打開了新的篇章。大家都知道，做一款好酒需要時間。所以我們非常幸運去能有機會探索和品嚐還在嬰兒時期的嘉地，有意思的是我們能伴隨這個故事。我相信在不遠的將來，也許就幾年時間，我們能夠很驕傲的說我們從一開就瞭解嘉地，品鑑了嘉地。

我們開始說一下這兩款酒，盲品是一個和特別的遊戲。我們很喜歡，但是這對我們來說其實也不簡單。曾經有個法國釀酒師說過，20年的品酒經驗，不如快速的看一眼酒標，但是可惜的是我並沒有機會看到今晚品鑑的酒的酒標。關於第一和第二款酒，非常的不同。如你們所品，第一款酒很年輕，是非常高雅的風格。我很喜歡這款的清新，果香和酸度的平衡。總結起來就是非常經典的一款。優雅感多於強勁。第二款酒非常的不同，更有結構，更偏向現代風格。你能品出來葡萄的成熟度，橡木風味...

Eric』s comments on the No.3 and No.4:

I』m not used to commenting when standing up. The fruity and acidity are well balanced, and not over matured. I』m not fond of over matured wines. They』re young and we can see their potentials. Let』s be patient and wait for their time.

Eric對第3、4款酒的評價：

站起身他有點羞澀地嘟囔了一句，「我不太習慣站起來發言」，接著說「果味和酸度的平衡非常好，而且不過熟，我不是很喜歡過熟的感覺；我們可以看到它們顯然的潛力，但是他們還年輕，需要我們再耐心等待一段時間。」

Jeannie Cho LEE MW:

All six wines have their strengths. So if I may, I always like to see the glass have full rather than have empty. So I』m happy to talk about the strengths of each of the wines. But last two I found，to be the most harmonious, and to have the most wonderful texture of tannins. When I』m tasting red wines blind, what I really look for, it』s the quality and the texture of tannins. It』s like evaluating textiles: materiel you are feeling, the quality of the silk, of the cotton. Whatever materiel you are looking at, for me for red wines, the polyphenols, the tannin component is really at the core of assessing the quality. And the last two had finer tannins, had a much more harmonious structure. And No.5 had, I think, maybe a little bit more sweetness, and it had a little bit more generosity. While, wine No. 6 was more restrained, if I were to characterize and describe the wines, 6 was a little bit more elegant, more Audrey Hepburn like, and No.5, was, you know a bit more bigger in substance, and in sizes, and riper in taste as well. So they』re both different both balanced, but in their own unique way.

So, if I were to go back to the first 4 wines. The first wine, I found its strength was its amazing approachability, you open it you drink it, and you just say this is good. You know, you don』t have to think seriously about it, it』s one of the wines that you can drink easily and talk to people, have a great conversation. So that is its strength.

Wine No.2 had a wonderful restraint, and I like wines when it doesn』t tell you everything all right it』s keeping a little bit back and saying 「get to know me a little better」. And I think you like me. So that was wine No.2

No.3, had a bit more forceful personality, it says you must like me. I』m great. Don』t I seem great? Don』t I have the ripeness? Don』t I have the fruit? You know, it was out there for you. You may not have liked it, because you think it』s a little bit forward, I don』t like forward people who approach me, and I don』t even know who they are, so it depends on your relationship with the wine. But it had that kind of personality.

Wine No.4 was also fruity and exuberant, outgoing, but in the finish, I think if you go back before, you see that, there is a little bit dryness, there is a little bit in the finish that tells you, you know what, I』m not ready for you. I』 not ready to talk to you today. So come back maybe, you know, in a couple of years, and we will, you know maybe we will have a good conversation then.

So that was kind of the character of the 6 wines I saw.

Jeannie對六款酒的評價：

首先我要說，六款酒各具特色。如果允許，我更喜歡酒杯是斟滿了美酒的而不是空的。我很高興來評論每一款酒的特色。最後兩款（第5、6款）我認爲最和諧，有著極好的單寧質感。當我盲品紅葡萄酒時，我真正追尋的是單寧的品質和質感。…….對於葡萄酒來說，多酚類物質及單寧的構成就是品評葡萄酒品質的核心。最後兩款酒有著更優秀的單寧，有著更和諧的結構。第五款，我覺得稍微有一點點甜，更落落大方。第六款酒更矜持內斂，更形象和具體地比喻，第六款更加優雅就像奧黛麗赫本一樣；第五款骨架大，口感也更成熟。他們都十分平衡，然而各具特色。

如果我們回頭看看前四款酒的話。第一款酒，它如此美妙容易接近，你打開她就可以啜飲她，就感覺很好，你完全不需要嚴肅地去想什麼，飲用她，愉快地談話。這就是她。

第二款酒非常內斂。我喜歡這樣的酒，它並不會訴說一切，它留有一些空間，似乎在說：來多多瞭解瞭解我吧，我覺得你喜歡我。這就是2號酒。

三號酒是比較強勢的、積極的，似乎在說：「你必須喜歡我！我很棒。難道我不優秀嗎？我沒有成熟度嗎？！我沒有果香嗎？！你看，這就是我的全部，就在這兒等你。你可能不喜歡我，因爲我有些主動。」……這就是這款酒的性格。

第四款酒也是活潑愉悅、果香十足的，非常外向。但是如果你再回過頭品品，餘味還是有些乾的。似乎在和你說：「哦，我還沒準備好，今天我還沒準備好和你說話。或許，幾年之後你再來找我，可能到時我們會聊的非常愉快。」